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Guide to Living and Teaching English in Taiwan

 

City of Taipei

A view of Taipei - Teaching English in Taiwan The skyline of Taipei is dominated by 101

Taipei (台北) is the national capital of Taiwan. It is located in the northern part of the island in a basin between the Yangming Mountains and the Central Mountains. The largest city of Taiwan, it serves as its financial and governmental center.

History

In 1884 the Qing dynasty governor of Taiwan decided to move the provincial capital to Taipei, and with the construction of government offices and the influx of civil servants, Taipei's days as a sleepy market town were over. As Taipei is located in the north of Taiwan (the closest area to Japan), the city continued to thrive when Taiwan was ceded to Japan in 1895. However, as Japan was in the throes of a 'modernize-come-what-may' period, little regard was paid to Taipei's traditional Chinese-style architecture and many of the old buildings, including the city walls, were demolished. During the Japanese period of colonial rule, several prominent buildings were however constructed, the Presidential Palace and National Taiwan University being among the most famous, but the city's architecture again suffered a major onslaught when the KMT government arrived from mainland China in 1945.

In order to cope with the influx of millions of mainland refugees, temporary housing estates sprang up all around the city. Later, these were replaced by Soviet-era style (or 'no-style') concrete apartment buildings. These buildings characterized Taipei's landscape until very recently.

In the 1980s, Taiwan's economy began to take off. Wages rose and in order to satisfy a wealthy and sophisticated market, Taipei began to change. Wide, tree lined boulevards were laid, high quality apartment blocks constructed and stylish restaurants and cafes established. The city was booming and has never looked back since.

The Taipei of today is a confident city of about 2.5 million inhabitants (about seven million including suburbs), and is characterized by its friendly people and safe streets. While it is not usually high on the list of tourist destinations, it is a fascinating place to visit and live. Furthermore, despite its size, Taipei does not have any rough areas that are considered unsafe, even at night - which in itself is attractive.

The downtown area is culturally divided into East and West. The West side, with its narrow streets and road side vendors, is considered the bastion of old Taipei life, whereas East Taipei, with its classy malls, chic boutiques, and stylish restaurants and cafes, reminiscent of those found in Hong Kong, Paris or New York represents the city's metamorphosis into a modern and international city.

Climate

Taipei has a semi-tropical climate characterized by hot and humid weather. The most comfortable season to visit is the Fall, when the rainfall is at its lowest and the temperatures average a pleasant mid 20°C. February to April are particularly damp with little sunlight, while the summers can be very hot, but often punctuated by heavy thunder showers. Taipei is prone to typhoons from May to October, though the highest concentrations are in August and September.

Getting To Taipei

Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport

Taipei's international airport is officially called Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport (台灣桃園國際機場). However, be aware that as this name was only adopted in September 2006, the old name, Chiang Kai Shek International Airport (often abbreviated as CKS), is still commonly used. The airport is located about 30 km from the city and freeway buses ply the route, picking up and dropping off passengers at most of the five star hotels. It also stops at the Taipei Main Station and the domestic airport (Songshan Airport), which is located in downtown Taipei. There are also bus services connecting the airport to nearby cities and Taichung in central Taiwan. Travelers to other destinations need to change transportation in Taipei.

There are four transportation options at the airport: bus, high speed rail, taxi, and pre-arranged sedan. An MRT line is under construction, but it will not be completed until February, 2011. Here are the options from cheapest to most expensive forms of transportation:

Express airport buses cost between NT$120 and NT$150 depending on the bus company, and there are stops at both terminals. Most Taipei routes are divided into West and East, with each company operating a service every ten to fifteen minutes on each route. The western line bus terminates at Taipei Main Railway Station and also makes a stop at Yuanshan MRT Station on the Xindian line (NB: The Airbus company buses on the western line meander through local towns before joining the freeway and therefore take much longer than the blue and white Guoguang buses which enter the freeway directly). Buses plying the eastern route terminate at the Taipei Grand Hyatt Hotel and make a stop at Zhongxiao-Fuxing MRT Station on the Nangang and Muzha lines. There is also a bus connecting to the domestic Songshan Airport. Ticket counters display route maps showing all stops.

In addition, there are some non-express buses which are slightly cheaper, but pass through towns such as Taoyuan (桃園), Nankan (南崁) or Kueishan (龜山) before arriving in Taipei.

When returning to the airport, express buses can be caught at various stops throughout the city. One major one is accessible via Exit 9 at the underground mall beneath Zhongxiao West Road (in front of Taipei Main Railway Station) or Exit 5 if you are coming out of the Taipei Main Station MRT. Another is at the terminal at the Songshan Domestic Airport (松山機場). Other stops are outside major hotels and also in front of Minsheng MRT Station. For people taking early morning flights, the earliest available buses to the airport leave at around 4AM from the Far Eastern Plaza Hotel (台北遠東國際大飯店) (201 Dunhua South Rd Section 2).

It is also easy to get to the High Speed Rail station from the airport. There is a bus that runs approximately every 15 minutes from the airport to the Taoyuan High Speed Rail station. From there, you can catch one of the HSR trains to Taipei Main Station (where it is easy to take a taxi or MRT to your final destination). The bus is NT$30 and the train is NT$160.

A one-way taxi fare between the airport and Taipei will cost at the minimum NT$900 (generally NT$1000-$1200 from the airport). In Taipei, don't make the mistake of asking a taxi driver to take you to the Taipei airport (Songshan) if you actually mean Taiwan Taoyuan Airport. The international airport is actually about an hour's drive from Taipei, while Songshan is located in downtown Taipei.

A one-way pre-arranged sedan fare between the airport and Taipei will cost at the minimum NT$1300-$1500. Generally these sedans are pre-arranged through your hotel and the sedan company or driver will meet you as soon as you exit baggage claim. Since the price is not much more than taking a taxi, it is usually recommended that you ask your hotel if they offer this service. This is a more comfortable half-hour ride to the hotel.

Direct bus connections between the airport and other cities in Taiwan are also available. U-bus also runs shuttle buses every 30 min from both terminals to THSR Taoyuan station (15 min away), from where you can continue your journey by high-speed train.

The closest hotel to the airport is the CitySuites Gateway Hotel, 10 min to Cing-pu High-speed Rail Station and three min to Taoyuan International Airport.

Songshan Airport

Songshan Airport (松山機場) at the top end of Dunhua North Rd is the city's domestic airport, and there are flights arriving and departing for all major cities on the island and the outlying islands every minute. It also serves weekend flights to mainland China.

Train Station

All inter-city trains, including those operated by the Taiwan High Speed Rail (台灣高鐵), arrive and depart from Taipei Railway Station (台北車站) on Zhongxiao West Road, Sec 1 - opposite the 53 story Shinkong Mitsukoshi Building (新光三越). Taipei Main Station is a huge facility. Ticket counters are on the first floor and platforms in B1. There is also a food court on the second floor, several underground shopping malls, an auditorium on the 5th floor, and MRT stations serving three lines. In addition to ticket counters, the first floor also has a tourist office, small supermarkets, a post office, stores selling aboriginal handicrafts and several booths offering head and neck and full body massage (NT$100 for every ten minutes).

Bus Station

Private and government inter-city buses arrive and depart from the Taipei Bus Terminal (also called Taipei Inter-city Bus Terminal). The terminal is a few minutes walk to the west of Taipei Railway Station (to the left and behind the station when facing the building from Zhongxiao West Road).

A convenient way to reach the terminal is via the underground 'Taipei Shopping Mall' (located at the rear/north side of the station) - '4 South (南)' is the nearest exit to the terminal. NB: For refreshments or snacks, the terminal only has convenience stores; for fresh drinks, passengers will need to go to the underground 'Taipei Shopping Mall' where there is a juice bar near exit '4 North (北)' (directly across from the exit for the terminal) and a coffee shop near exit '10 North (北)' Generally speaking, the buses operated by private companies are more comfortable and sport such amenities as wide reclining seats and individual game and video monitors. The government run buses are blue and white and are called guoguang hao (國光號). All intercity buses are known as keyun and can be distinguished from the local city buses called gongche (公車) by the fact that they do not have a route number, but only the name of the destination.

Getting Around Taipei

Metro System

Taipei MRT Map - ESL in Taiwan Map of Taipei's extensive subway system

Taipei City has a very clean, efficient and safe Mass Rapid Transit system known most commonly as the MRT, but also called Metro Taipei (台北捷運). Muzha line, which connects to Taipei Zoo, is a driverless elevated system. The last trains depart at midnight. Fares are between NT$20 and NT$65 for one-way trips around town. Stations and trains are clearly identified in English, so even for those who cannot read Chinese, the MRT system is very accessible. All stops are announced in four languages: Mandarin, Taiwanese, Hakka and English. Most stations have information booth/ticket offices close to the ticket vending machines. There is no eating or drinking while in the stations or on the trains. Trains generally run from 6AM to midnight, with convenient bus connections outside the stations.

Women and/or children traveling at night can benefit from the Safe Zones - sections of platforms that are under heavy surveillance - located in some of the subway lines.

In addition to single journey tickets, the Taipei MRT also sells value-added cards/smart cards called EasyCard (悠遊卡). These cards hold amounts up to NT$5,000, and one only needs to swipe them past the barrier monitor to gain entry and exit. Value added cards can be purchased at station ticket offices or at vending machines. One great advantage of using the EasyCard is that there is a 20% discount on all MRT rides, and if you transfer from the MRT to an ordinary city bus, or vice versa, within an hour, the bus ride is only NT$7. The discount is automatically calculated when you leave the MRT station. The EasyCard can be recharged at convenience stores and subway stations. In addition to the subway and buses, some parking lots also offer an option to pay with the EasyCard. To purchase a new EasyCard you will need to pay a deposit of NT$100.

Often times limited-edition cards are issued by the transit authority depicting artworks, famous characters, landscapes, etc. These are quite collectible and are perfect souvenirs for your trip. Remember single-journey cards are recycled when you exit the stations, so if you want to keep a particular card you should purchase an extra.

Bus System

Taipei Bus - ESL in Taiwan The buses in Taipei offer a convenient method of transportation

Taipei City has a very efficient bus service, and because all buses display information (destination and the names of stops) in English, the system is very accessible to non-Chinese speaking visitors. Payment can be made by cash (NT$15) or EasyCard (see "metro" listing) for each section that the bus passes through. For local buses (all local buses have a number, but long distance buses do not) the maximum will be two sections with a total cost of NT$30. The confusion, however, arises by not knowing where the section boundaries are located. If you begin your journey at the first stop, you may travel for a long distance for only NT$15. However, if you get on just before a section boundary, you will have to pay for two sections, even if you have only traveled a few stops.


When to pay: Above the driver, there is an electronic red sign. If the Chinese character for "up" (上) is lit, then you pay when you get on. If the same sign is lit when you get off, you do not need to pay again. However, if the sign is displaying the Chinese character for "down" (下) when you are getting off, then you will need to pay a second time. Finally, if the character for "down" is lit up when you get on, then you only need to pay when you get off. Until you get the hang of the system, just let the locals go first and follow their action. It's really not as complicated as it sounds!

And if you are transferring from the transit system to a bus within one hour, there is a discounted bus fare.

Taxi

Taxis are the most flexible way to get around, and are extremely numerous. They are expensive in comparison to mass transit, but are cheap when compared to taxis in the rest of the world. Most taxi drivers speak very limited English, and it will be necessary for non-Chinese speakers to have their destination written down in Chinese. Taxis are metered, with higher rates for night (an additional NT$20 over the meter). Tipping is neither necessary nor expected.

Passengers who sit in the front seat of the taxi are required to buckle their seatbelt. Women and/or children traveling at night are advised to use one of the reputable taxi companies. The toll free taxi hotline is 0800-055850 (maintained by Department of Transportation).

Taiwanese taxi drivers are notorious for their strong opinions on politics as they spend all day listening to talk radio, although they will probably be unable to share any of this with you if you do not speak Chinese.

Landmarks

Taipei 101 (臺北 101)

Taipei 101 - Teaching English in Taiwan Until only recently, Taipei 101 was the tallest building in the world!

Officially known as the Taipei International Financial Center (臺北國際金融大樓), this 101-floor, 508-meter high skyscraper is located in the Xinyi District of Taipei. Until recently it was the tallest building in the world. The tower is rich in symbolism. It was designed to resemble bamboo rising from the earth, a plant recognized in Asian cultures for its fast growth and flexibility, both of which are ideal characteristics for a financial building. The building is also divided into eight distinct sections, with eight being a number associated with prosperity in Chinese culture. The internal architecture of Taipei 101 is similarly awe-inspiring. Pay attention to ornate details on the structural beams, columns, and other elements. Taipei 101 is perhaps most notable for its feats of engineering. It has been the world's tallest building since 2004, as determined by three of the four standards designated by the Council on Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat. It also boasts the world's fastest elevators, which will zip visitors up to the 89th-floor observation deck in a mere 37 seconds (cost: NT$400 for adults, NT$370 for kids under 12). It's worth taking a ride up, as the views are stunning. The best time to visit would be in the late afternoon when you spend a couple of hours and see both day and night views of Taipei. For an additional NT$100, you can also go up to the outdoor observatory on the 91st floor. Don't forget to look toward the middle of the building, where you'll see one of the massive gold dampers that keep the building steady. Attached to the tower is a large, up-scale mall. While the stores are unremarkable in that they offer the same brand-names as stores in other major cities around the world, the open and spacious design of the structure itself definitely makes it worth a visit. Located next to the cafes on the fourth floor is Page One Bookstore, which has one of the largest selections of English books in Taiwan. A supermarket specializing in imported food items is located in the basement. Taipei 101 is a 15 to 20-minute walk from the Taipei City Hall MRT station (Blue Line).

The Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall (國父紀念館)

Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall - ESL in Taiwan The Sun Yat-sen Memorial hall is another great landmark in Taipei

Constructed in the memory of Dr. Sun Yat-sen who is the founding father of the Republic of China. The construction of the Memorial commenced in 1965 in conjunction with the 100th anniversary of Sun Yat-sen's birth. It was opened in May 16, 1972, with the majestic architecture and placid landscape covering an area of some 115,500 sq. meters. The park named Zhongshan Park marks the front yard of the Hall. On the inside, there is a 19-foot bronze statue of Dr. Sun Yat-sen, watched over the day by motionless military honor guards, along with a library of 400 seats storing over 1.4 millions books. The 100 meter long Zhongshan corridor links the main hall to the four large exhibition buildings where contemporary arts and historical articles are frequently on display. The Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall has grown into much of a community center, and is much less touristy than the newer and larger Chiang Kai-shek Memorial. There is an auditorium which has weekly lectures and seminars on aspects of art and life. It is also a popular site for public concerts.

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall (中正紀念堂)

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial - Teaching English in Taiwan Chiang Kai-shek Memorial hall is a large central space usually filled with activity

Controversially renamed the "National Taiwan Democracy Memorial Hall" (臺灣民主紀念館) by the DPP, this building is the symbol of both Taipei and the Republic of China. It is here that the nation's flag is raised every morning, and the huge court yard in front of the memorial serves as a place for both national celebrations as well as a platform to voice one's disapproval of the government. The memorial consists of a large bronze statue of Chiang Kai-shek, watched over by two motionless honor guards who are replaced every hour in a rifle twirling ceremony (though this ritual has been suspended due to political wrangling). Downstairs, there is a museum of Chiang's life, complete with his sedans and uniforms. Even if you are not into memorials, the gardens, with their Chinese style ponds, are definitely worth a visit. The memorial has its own MRT station on the Xindian line. The grounds of the memorial are also a favorite place for locals to gather and practice martial arts, though you'll have to be there early if you want to see this. Most people begin their work-out at around sunrise, and will have left for the office before 8AM.

National Theater Hall (國家戲劇院) and National Concert Hall (國家音樂廳)

Located in the grounds of the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial are excellent places to see performances of a Taiwanese play or dance troupe. They also host many international events. The building's neo-classic Chinese architecture is especially stunning when flood-lit at night.

National Taiwan University (台灣大學)

Taiwan's preeminent institution of higher education, NTU is located on the south side of Taipei. The campus grounds are surrounded by several blocks of shops, bookstores, eateries, cafes and tea houses popular with students and scholars. This is one of the main transportation hubs, as many buses stop here. While you wait for your bus, or before you go underground to catch the subway, you can shop for clothing, accessories, books, or trinkets. You name it, you can find it. Browse through the stalls and booths directly across the street from the main entrance of the university (don't forget there is a lot more just behind the main street), grab a bite or two of the popular snacks, such as fresh fruit, spice-cooked meats, soy goodies, sky high ice cream cones, sweets, shaved ice, tapioca teas, fresh bread, and more. You can also sample the yummy Taiwanese fried chicken chain Ding Gua Gua. Try a "Gua Gua Bao," a flavorful sticky rice pouch. If you like sweet potato, Ding Gua Gua's fries will make you want to come back for more! There are many American fast food restaurants across the street on the right of the University, right next to several wonderful book stores. Nearest MRT station: Gongguan (公館) on the Xindian (Green) Line.

The Grand Hotel (圓山大飯店)

The Grand Hotel, Taipei - ESL in Taiwan The Grand Hotel has been a landmark of Taipei for almost 50 years

A 5-star hotel near Yuanshan, it has been rated as one of the world's top ten hotels by the US Fortune magazine in 1968. It opened in May 1952, and expanded several times before becoming the landmark it is today. The swimming pool, tennis court, and membership lounge were constructed in 1953. The Golden Dragon Pavilion and Golden Dragon Restaurant opened in 1956 and the The Jade Phoenix Pavilion and Chi-Lin Pavilion opened in 1958 and 1963 respectively. The main Grand Hotel building was completed on the Double Tenth Day of 1973, making it an instant icon of Taipei. And this hotel is a part of scene in the Taiwanese film - Eat Drink Man Woman by the world famous Director - Ang Lee.

Museums/Galleries

The National Palace Museum (故宮博物院)

The world's best collection of Chinese historical artifacts and antiquities. The museum is located in Shilin. The nearest MRT station is Shilin (士林), with frequent buses from Shilin heading for the Palace Museum. Look for the displays on the buses. Some are written in English. It's a must-see for first time visitors.

Taipei Fine Arts Museum (台北市立美術館)

181 Zhongshan North Rd, Sec. 3 (near the Yuanshan MRT Station on the Danshui line). Open Tues-Sun 9:30AM-5PM. Adult admission NT$30, concessions NT$15. The museum displays work of local and international artists.

Hua Shan Cultural and Creative Industry Center (華山創意文化園區)

1 Bade Road, Sec 1. This former brewery has been transformed into a creative space in a park. The exhibitions here are well presented and imaginative and the theater performances, while less formal than those at the National Theater, are still first rate. The center also has a great cafe with outdoor seating, an excellent place to watch Taipei at work and play over a cappuccino.

Spot - Taipei Film House (台北之家)

Zhongshan North Rd, Sec. 2 (nearest MRT Station: Zhongshan on the Danshui line). This former residence of the U.S. Ambassador has been transformed into an art center that focuses on independent films. In addition to screenings, the house also has great cafes and restaurants that spill out onto balconies and into the garden. The book store offers a good selection of hard-to-get art/independent films on DVD, though for other movies, prices are lower at regular DVD rental stores. Open Tues-Sun, 11AM - 10PM. Admission is free.

Parks

Daan Forest Park (大安森林公園)

Daan Park - Teaching English in Taiwan The Daan park is a great location to relax and escape the hectic city life

One of Taipei's newest parks. The park rests on 26 hectares in central Taipei bordered by Xinyi Road, Jianguo South Road, Heping East Road, and Xinsheng South Road. Due to its size and location, it is also known as Taipei Central Park. Bus lines 15, 52, 235, 278, 284, 20, 22, Xinyi Main Line service this park.

Taipei Botanical Garden (植物園)

The gardens are nearest MRT station 'Xiaonanmen' on the green line between the MRT Ximen station and MRT C.K.S Memorial Hall station. This beautiful garden has inspired the citizens of Taipei for over one hundred years. The lotus ponds are a hallmark of the park and are especially captivating when the these symbols of peace are in full bloom and swaying in the summer breeze. The gardens are close to the National Museum of History.

228 Peace Park (二二八和平公園)

This park is on the north side of Katagalan Boulevard and the MRT station 'National Taiwan University Hospital' on the Danshui line. The park was founded by the Japanese in 1907, and was originally called New Park (新公園). The name was changed in 1996 to commemorate those killed in the 228 Incident of 28 February 1947. The park is popular with practitioners of taichi and senior citizens playing Chinese chess. The National Taiwan Museum marks the northern entrance to the park.

Temples

Longshan Temple (龍山寺)

Longshan Temple, Taipei - ESL in Taiwan Longshan Temple is one of the top cultural sites to visit in Taipei

This temple is where countless generations of Taipei citizens have come to pray and seek guidance at times of trouble. As the temple is dedicated to Guanyin (the Buddhist representation of compassion) it is officially defined as Buddhist, but there is a great amount of folk religion mixed into the fabric of the beliefs at this temple. However, if you want to feel the real heartbeat of Taipei, one that is far removed from the skyscrapers and shopping malls of East Taipei, this is the place to come. It just oozes with character, although don't come expecting to find teachings on meditation. The area around Longshan Temple, Wanhua, is one of the original districts of Taipei. And, while much of the traditional architecture has been lost, the area still maintains a traditional feel. It is here that the blind masseurs congregate to offer their skill. Likewise, this is the area where the Taiwanese come to learn who they should marry or what to name their children by consulting one of the many fortune tellers that set up shop along the roads and alleys around the temple. The temple is located at 211 Guangzhou Road (near junction with Guilin Road) and is open daily from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. The nearest MRT station is 'Longshan Temple' on the Ban-Nan Line.

Baoan Temple (保安宮)

61 Ha-mi St, the nearest MRT station is 'Yuanshan' on the Danshui Line. Construction began on this temple in 1805 and it was completed 25 years later. Baoan is a Taoist temple and one of the leading religious sites in Taipei. The temple's main deity is the emperor Baosheng, the god of medicine. The mural paintings and sculptures that adorn the the building are considered some of the most impressive in Taiwan, and the temple won acclaims in the 2003 UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Awards.

Confucius Temple (孔廟)

Confucius Temple, Taipei - Teaching English in Taiwan The Confucius Temple lies in the heart of old Taipei and is another site definitely worth visiting

Just next to Baoan Temple, the Confucius Temple was built in 1879 when the Qing Court changed Taipei into a prefecture of the Province of Fujian, China. It was established to serve as the largest educational center in northern Taiwan. Every September 28th, a large number of people from Taiwan and abroad come here to watch a solemn Confucius birthday ceremony and eight-row dance. The temple is located at 275 Dalong St, the nearest MRT station is 'Yuanshan' on the Danshui Line.

Things To Do

Hot Springs (溫泉)

Hot springs come in various brands in Taipei, ranging from basic, to plush spas at five star hotels. The basic free 'rub and scrub' type public baths are run by the city. Most hotels offer the option of a large sex-segregated bathing area that generally consists of several large baths of various temperatures, jacuzzi, sauna and steam bath and also private and family rooms (NB: the law in Taiwan states that for safety reasons, individuals are not allowed to bathe in the private rooms, and there must be at least two people). Some hotels also have outdoor baths (露天溫泉), which offer restful views over the surrounding country-side. Prices range from around NT$300 to NT$800. Public hot spring etiquette requires that bathers thoroughly wash and rinse off their bodies before entering the bath, do not wear clothing (including swim wear) in the bath and tie up their hair so that it does not touch the water. Finally, people with high blood pressure, heart disease or open wounds should not enter the baths.

There are three main places to have a soak in the Taipei area:

  • Beitou (北投)
  • Wulai (烏來)
  • Yangmingshan National Park (陽明山)

Hiking

Yangminshan National Park, Taipei - ESL in Taiwan Hiking is a popular activity and is easily accessed from the city center

Hiking is a popular exercise in Taipei. The main hiking spot in Taipei is Yangmingshan National Park (陽明山國家公園). There are dozens of hiking trails in the park.

Taipei Zoo (台北動物園)

30 Xinguang Rd Sec. 2 Nestled in a tight, lush valley, Taipei Zoo has all the leisurely charm of a large park, but for your NT$60 you also get the enjoyment of wandering through trees and along lanes with a variety of animals and birds. Unlike many traditional zoos, the animals here are not confined to cages, but allowed to roam freely in open paddocks, and it is a very clean and well maintained facility. Furthermore, due to the city government's education policy, the zoo is very much an integral part of Taipei life. So much so in fact, that when an old elephant, Lin-Wang (林旺), became ill and died several years ago, several generations turned up, many with tears in their eyes, to say their farewells. The zoo is located in the suburb of Muzha. The entrance is just outside the terminal stop on the Muzha MRT line, 'Taipei Zoo'.

Leofoo Village Theme Park (六福村主題樂園)

Located in Guansi township, Hsinchu County. It is the one of the largest theme parks in Taiwan. The park has its fare share of thrill rides and as well as the usual theme park atmosphere. Leofoo Village Theme Park opens from 9AM-5:30PM Mon-Fri, 9AM-6PM on public holidays.

Language

Center for Chinese Language and Culture Studies. National Taiwan Normal University (Shida), 162 Heping East Rd, sec. 1. Tel+886 2 2321-8457 & 2391-4248. Fax:886 2 2341-8431, e-mail: mtc@mtc.ntnu.edu.tw. This school, which is part of Shi-da University, has seen generations of students passing through its doors and it remains one of the most popular schools in Taiwan for serious students of Mandarin.

International Chinese Language Program National Taiwan University (Taida). This program, which used to be called the IUP program, has a long history of Chinese language training, especially for advanced learners and primarily targeting graduate students, scholars and professionals studying in China and Taiwan. It has very small classes, very high quality instructors and textbooks, but may be considerably more expensive than the alternatives. Only students who expect a very intensive experience, usually with a year or more of time to dedicate to study, should consider this program.

Shopping

Taipei 101 - Teaching English in Taiwan The heart of Taipei 101 offers some great shopping!

Xinyi District is the seat of the Taipei mayor's office and the Taipei city council. The Taipei Convention Hall, the Taipei World Trade Center, Taipei 101, Taipei City Hall, and various shopping malls and entertainment venues make Xinyi the most modern cosmopolitan district of Taipei. Xinyi District is also considered the financial district of Taipei. The Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall is also in the district. Much of the district used to be wetlands, explaining the abundance of space for construction projects as this was one of the last places in Taipei to be developed. The district is arguably the premiere shopping area in Taipei, if not all of Taiwan. Xinyi District is anchored by a number of department stores and malls. In addition, numerous restaurants are located in the area, especially American chain restaurants.

Shilin Night Market has stores selling good, hand bags, clothing, and more. Most of the merchandise consists of imitations. To get there, take the MRT Danshui Line to Jiantan Station. The food court is located directly across the street from the station with the rest of the night market spreading out to the north.

Miramar Entertainment Park is a standard shopping center with the usual merchandise. It houses the only IMAX theatre in Taiwan as well as the Miramar ferris wheel which offers great views of Taipei city.

Eslite Mall (誠品 Chengpin) is an upscale market-style shopping center with a 24 hour book shop (with a good English selection) on the second floor and ethnic music store in basement. 245 Dunhua South Road (near intersection with Renai Road).

Breeze Center (微風廣場 Weifeng Guangchang), 39 Fuxing South Rd, Sec. 1 (near the intersection with Civic Boulevard) Tel:+886 2 6600-8888. Open: 11AM-9:30PM Sun-Thur, 11AM-10PM Fri-Sat.

The Core Pacific Living Mall (京華城 Jinghua Cheng), reportedly Asia's largest shopping center under one roof, has many stores open 24 hours a day. It also has a large food court, cinema complex, and the nightclub Plush (located on Bade Rd near intersection with Guangfu South Rd).

A main shopping area is also located around the Sogo Department Store on Zhongxiao East Road, Sec. 4(nearest MRT Station: Zhongxiao Fuxing), and the lanes and alleys around Da'an Road (behind Sogo) have an interesting array of small shops and boutiques. Buddha Statues, prayer flags and other artifacts associated with Tibetan Buddhism can be purchased at Potala, 2F, 2-4, Lane 51, Da'an Rd. Tel:+886 2 2741-6906. The staff speaks English and the prices are reasonable. For those interested in all things Nepalese you should check out Jay Shiva Shamyoo Himalayan Handicrafts, located in the basement of 1 Lane 146, Zhongxiao East Road, sec. 4. Tel:+886 2 2740 2828.

Computer buffs will enjoy a visit to Guanghua Digital Plaza (光華數位新天地), originally called Guanghua Market (光華商場). Specializing in computer and electronic goods, this market has the largest number of stalls selling hardware and software under one roof in Taiwan, and all at very competitive prices. While there, check out the enormous DVD and VCD selection (remember to check DVD region codes) and used book stores. The old location on Bade Road. under the Xinsheng overpass was demolished in January 2006, and all of the shops have moved to a new building at the southwest corner of Civic Boulevard and Xinsheng North Road in July, 2008, a short walk from the old location. The new building comprises of six floors: the first floor contains an exhibition area for new products and a food court; the original vendors of the old market are located on the second and third floor; floors four and five include vendors and shops from the Xining Electronic Market; and the sixth floor houses product repair centers.

Ximending, Taipei - Teaching English in Taiwan Ximending shopping area is a local favorite to find great deals

Ximending (西門町) is the trendy shopping area just west of Downtown. It's popular with local students. If it's pink, plastic, and imported from Japan, you can probably find it on sale in a store here. To get to Ximending, take the MRT Blue (Bannan) Line and get off at Ximen Station.

Zhongshan North Road (中山北路) is a tree-lined boulevard featuring numerous international and local brands. Gucci and Louis Vuitton are among the brands who operate stores along this street. This road, particularly along the second section, is also famous for its numerous wedding picture studios and gown boutiques. It is possible to find a great deal for wedding portraits here as competition is stiff. This road runs parallel to the MRT Red (Danshui/Beitou) line.

Weekend Jade Market (假日玉市) – Located under an elevated expressway, reaching from Renai Road & Jianguo South Road intersection down Jianguo Road. till Xinyi Rd. In addition to jade, flowers and many other kinds of handcrafts and jewelry can be purchased. There are actually three different markets, the Weekend Jade Market, Weekend Flower Market and Weekend Handicrafts Market in this same location. And, as the names suggest, they're only open on weekends until 6PM.

Food

Chinese Cuisine

Tien Hsiang Lo (天香樓), B1, 41 Minquan East Rd, Sec. 2. (The Landis Taipei Hotel). Tel:+886 2 2597-1234, [50]. Authentic Hangzhou cuisine. Reservations are recommended.

Pearl Liang (漂亮中式海鮮餐廳), 2F, 2 Songshou Rd (Grand Hyatt Taipei). Tel:+886 2 2720-1200, [51]. Offers unique, fresh, live seafood and dim sum.

Shang Palace (香宮), 6F, 201 Dunhua South Rd Sec. 2. (Far Eastern Plaza Hotel). Tel:+886 2 2378-8888, [52]. Specialize in Cantonese and regional Chinese cuisines. Note: Dim sum is available for lunch only.

Din Tai Fung (鼎泰豐), 194 Xinyi Rd Sec. 2 (Entrance of Yongkang Street). Tel:+886 2 2321-8928, [53]. Famous for its steamed pork dumplings. Worth a detour. Several locations in Taipei and worldwide. Gets very crowded even on weekdays so book in advance.

Peking Do It True (北平都一處), 506 Renai Rd Sec. 4. Tel:+886 2 2720-6417. This is the place to go if you crave good Beijing cuisine. Visitors may be surprised to see a large photo of former U.S. President George H. W. Bush on the wall, taken when he ate at the restaurant during his trip to Taiwan in 1994.

Yin-Yi Restaurant (銀翼餐廳), 2F 18 Jinshan South Rd Sec. 2. Tel:+886 2 2341-7799. Dedicated to old style Yangzhou cuisine.

Shan Xi Dao Xiao Mian (山西刀削麵), 2, Lane 118, Heping East Road Sec. 2. (@ Fuxing S Road, near Technology Bldg MRT station, is in an alley of Taiwan National University) Tel:+886 2 2378-7890. Serving knife cut noodles, which are known for their chewy texture. As the name suggests, a block of noodle dough is held and the noodles are cut straight off of the block. Cheap and very popular, but no English menus.

Yongkang Beef Noodle (永康牛肉麵), 17, Lane 31, Jinshan South Road Sec. 2. Tel:+886 2 2351-1051, [54]. One of the top-twenty beef noodle shops in Taipei.

Kiki Restaurant (老媽餐廳), 28, Fuxing South Road Sec. 1. Tel:+886 2 2752-2781, [55]. Just Opposite the Breeze Center, This restaurant serves Szechwanese peppery hot pot, fried tofu and more.

Taiwanese Cuisine

Tainan Tan-tsu-mien Seafood Restaurant (台南擔仔麵), 31 Huaxi Street. Tel:+886 2 2308-1123. Legendary in the Huaxi Street Tourist Night Market (Snake Alley).

Ching-Yeh (青葉餐廳), 1, Lane 105, Zhongshan North Road Sec. 1. Tel:+886 2 2551-7957. The most famous Taiwanese restaurant in Taipei, beside the Zhongshan North Road.

Shinyeh's Table (欣葉蔥花), 2F 201 Zhongxiao East Road Sec.4. Tel:+886 2 2778-8712. Near the MRT Zhongxiao Fuxing Station, located right inside the Tongling Department Store. It's the newest Taiwanese cuisine restaurant in Taipei. Menu has English.

Thai Cuisine

Thai Guo Xiao Guan (泰國小館), 219 Tingzhou Rd Sec. 3. (Near the Taiwan National University) Tel:+886 2 2367-0739. This small Thai restaurant is in Gongguan and has authentic Thai food at low prices.

Thai Heaven Restaurant (泰平天國), 60 Roosevelt Rd Sec. 2. Tel:+886 2 2392-5969. [56]. Near the Taiwan Normal University (Shi-da) this restaurant serves authentic fire-hot Thai cuisine. Try the Moon Shrimp Cake and Green Papaya Salad. Tasty!

Japanese Cuisine

Mitsui Japanese Cuisine (三井日本料理), 30 Nong-an St. Tel:+886 2 2594-3394.[57]. The best Japanese cuisine in Taipei.

Mei Guan Yuan (美觀園), 36 Emei St, Tel:+886 2 2331-0377. Located in Ximending Pedestrian Area. This restaurant has served authentic Japanese sushi and sashimi since 1946. (Note there's another restaurant opposite the road from this with exactly the same name - that's the old location of this restaurant and doesn't serve as good sushi.)

Korean

Korean P&L B.B.Q Restaurant (韓式烤肉), 47, Longquan Street. Tel:+886 2 2362-1637. Located near the Taiwan Normal University (Shida) and in Shida Night market, this small place serves traditional Korean barbecue, kimchi hot pot and spicy rice cakes.

Pusan House (釜山館), 10, Lane 13, Pucheng Street (second lane on right off Shi-Da Road when traveling from Heping East Road). Tel:+886 2 8369-3919. A small, clean korean restaurant in Shida area. Popular with students.

Vietnamese Cuisine

Thanh Ky 1, Lane 6, Yongkang Street. Tel:+886 2 2321-1579. Always busy and popular with Vietnamese ex pats and locals. Rice noodle soup with spicy beef and curried beef or pork is a specialty.

Indian

Tandoori Indian Restaurant (坦都印度餐廳), 10, Lane 73, Hejiang Street. Tel:+886 2 2509-9853.

Out of India (印渡風情), 26, Lane 13, Pucheng Street (second lane on right off Shi-Da Road when traveling from Heping East Road). Tel:+886 2 2363-3054 - food ok, but not great value.

Namaste Curry 2F. 16, Lane 316, Roosevelt Road sec 3 (near Gongguan MRT Station). Tel:+886 2 2362-9538 - friendly and warm atmosphere - good reasonably priced food.

Carnegie's Anhe Road, Section 2, No.100 (near Far Eastern Hotel). Tel:+886 2 2325-4433 - While not an Indian restaurant per se, Carnegie's features many Indian dishes, and they have an excellent "Curry-Out" menu if you feel like bringing a curry or two home with you.

Middle Eastern

Sababa 8, Alley 54, Lane 118, Heping East Road, Sec. 2. (across from the Xinhai Road entrance to Taiwan National University). Tel:+886 2 2738-7769, and 17 Lane 283, Roosevelt Road, sec 3. Tel:+886 2 2363-8009. Authentic Middle Eastern cuisine at very reasonable prices - warm and cozy atmosphere.

International

Grandma Nitty's Kitchen 8, Lane 93, Shida Road. Tel:+886 2 2369-9751. Located in the Shida area, this restaurant serves many great dishes such as burgers, sandwiches, pastas, Greek Omelets, Tex-Mex Fajitas and more. Very popular with American language teachers and students.

JB's 148, Shida Road. Tel:+886 2 2364-8222. A European pub and restaurant in Shida area serves traditional European fare on the first floor. The second floor features the main bar and activity center. Steak pie and fish and chips are Taipei's best.

Pizza

Pizza is easy to find in Taiwan with major chains such as Pizza Hut and Domino's. Besides the usual variety, Taiwan also has its localized variants e.g. seafood supreme, pepper steak, corn, peas etc.

Alleycat's Pizza B1, 6-1 Lishui Street (near the intersection of Xinyi Road and Jinshan South Road). Tel:886 2 2321-8949. [60]. Generally considered by ex-pats to be the best traditional Italian pizza in Taipei.

Casa Della Pasta 7-1, Lane 11, Zhongshan North Road, sec 2. Tel:886 2 2567-8769. Reasonably priced pizzas at good prices. Authentic Italian decor.

Steak

Ruth's Chris Steak House (茹絲葵), 2F, 135 Minsheng East Road, Sec 3. Tel+886 2 2545-8888, Perhaps Taipei's best-known and best American steakhouse.

Wang Steak House (王品台塑牛排), 169 Nanjing East Road, Sec 4. Tel:886 2 8770-7989. An upscale chain steakhouse known for its signature "Wang steak".

Lawry's Steak House 12F Core Pacific Living Mall (京華城), 138 Bade Road, sec 4.

Vegetarian

Vegetarian food (素食) is also common fare, with the city boasting more than two hundred such restaurants and vendor stands. Another Taipei specialty is vegetarian buffets. They are common in every neighborhood, and unlike the 'all-you-can-eat' buffets listed below (which charge a set price, usually ranging from NT$250 - NT$350 including dessert and coffee/tea), the cost is estimated by the weight of the food on your plate. Rice (there is usually a choice of brown or white) is charged separately, but soup is free and you can refill as many times as you like. NT$75-120 will buy you a good sized, nutritious meal. Note that many of these veggie restaurants are Buddhist in nature and so meals do not contain garlic or onion (which traditionalists claim inflames passion).

Lotus Pavilion Restaurant B1, 153-155 Xinyi Road, Sec. 4 (entrance in alley behind Changhwa Bank. Tel:+886 2 2703-5612). An upscale all-you-can-eat buffet.

Heart of the Lotus Garden 2F No. 108 Xinsheng North Road, Sec. 2 (near intersection with Jinzhou Street - Tel:+886 2 2560-1950). This is another upscale all-you-can-eat buffet.

Om Ah Hum No. 6, Alley 18, Lane 60, Taishun Street (off Shida Road - Tel:+886 2 2362-3919. Located in traditional wooden building.

For a special Taipei street experience, check out the veggie vendor outside No. 30, Lane 216, Zhongxiao East Road Sec. 4 (in the alleys behind the Dunhua South Road Eslite Mall and book store). The rice noodles are especially delicious and cheap and a plate of their dougan (dried tofu) makes a great side dish.

Shui-Ge B1, 270 Zhongxiao East Road, Sec. 4 (Tel:886 2 2711-1871) - up-scale all-you-can-eat buffet.

Armillydo 13, Lane 170, Xinsheng South Road, Sec. 1 (enter from Lane 243, Xinyi Road, sec 2 - Tel:+886 2 2358-2677) - an organic restaurant with Zen style decor.

Drink

Bars/Clubs

Luxy 5F, 201 Zhongxiao E. Road, Section 4, near the Zhongxiao Dunhua MRT station, [63]. One of the most well-known clubs in Taipei. Luxy has two levels: the lower level has a side room playing house/techno and a main room playing hip-hop; the upper level is a lounge with a small dance floor over-looking the main room. Cover charge goes up after 11 pm. Get there early to avoid a line.

Ziga Zaga No.2, Song Shou Road, Grand Hyatt Taipei. This club specializes in cocktails and Italian cuisine - both the service and food are excellent. It's popular with locals and ex pats. Ladies Night on Wed.

The Wall Live House B1, 200 Roosevelt Road, Sec 4, 2930-0162, [64]. Mostly Taiwanese bands playing everything from rock to reggae.

Ageha B1, 171 Songde Road. Tel:+886 2 2346-5556, [65]. A two-level dance club & lounge with good D.J.'s.

Carnegie's 100 Anhe Road, Sec 2. Tel:+886 2 2325-4433. Popular with locals and ex pats. Ladies Nights on Wed. The outdoor patio is perfect for those who prefer quieter and less smoky atmospheres. The scene is geared toward the 30+ ex pats and locals.

Indian Beerhouse 196 Bade Road, Sec. 2. Tel:+886 2 2741-0550. The beerhouse with dinosaur skeletons themed decor. Customers can enjoy the greasy night-market style snacks with kegs of beer.

Taiwan Beer Bar 85 Bade Road, Sec. 2 – A godsend for the thirsty budget traveler in a city of pricey bars, this is most certainly the cheapest bar in town. It's attached to the brewery where Taiwan Beer is made, close to the intersection of Bade and Jianguo Roads. What it lacks in ambiance it more than makes up for in price. NT$50 per mug of Taiwan Beer, NT$100 per liter. Interior and exterior seating are available.

Tea Houses

Taiwan's specialty tea is High Mountain Oolong (高山烏龍, a fragrant, light tea) and Tieguanyin (鐵觀音, a dark, rich brew).

Wisteria House (紫藤廬), 16 Xinsheng South Road, Sec 3. Tel:+886 2 2363-7375, [66]. Wisteria is set in a traditional house, complete with tatami mats, and is a great place to spend an afternoon relaxing with friends and soaking up the atmosphere of Taiwan.

Hui Liu (回留), No 9, Lane 31, Yongkang Street. Tel:+886 2 2392-6707. Located next to the small and verdant Yongkang Park, Hui Liu is a modern style tea house. In addition to serving Chinese tea, Hui Liu is also famous for its organic vegetarian meals and hand made pottery.

Teng (藤居), 29, Lane 61, Linyi Street (between Renai Road, sec 2 and Xinyi Road, sec 2). Tel:+886 2 2321-9089. A rustic tea house and art studio in the heart of Taipei.

The mountainous Maokong area of Muzha in the Wenshan district of the city has dozens upon dozens of teahouses, many of which also offer panoramic views of the city - especially spectacular on a clear evening. A Maokong Gondola (cable car) system services the Taipei Zoo MRT station to Maokong. The S10 bus comes up from the Wanfang Community MRT station.